mardi 12 janvier 2016

Is There Such A Thing As Queens Charlotte Islands Accommodations?

By Edward Allen


The North American continent is home to many of the world's greatest outdoors vacations, where one can escape it all and head back to the way the ancients lived. Among these sites is the Great Northwest's version of paradise: a forested archipelago off the Canadian mainland at British Columbia. Most of us will be happy to learn that even in the largely pristine Queens Charlotte Islands accommodations are available. In fact, they're quite civilized, just in case you prefer a resort-level meal and a comfy bed to camping on the beach with the bears.

Unknown to the average tourist, the Queen Charlotte Islands are home to several middle-sized lodges to downright cozy cottages. Typically, these have a humble, environmentally-appropriate exterior that hides considerable luxury within. Because the archipelago isn't a destination for people in a hurry to spend hours in a hotel bar, news about these accommodations has been slow to get out. People visit here for the romance of camping out on a remote beach in some hidden cove, not hot-tubbing with party animals.

Increasingly known by its ancient name, Haida Gwaii, the island chain belonged to the Haida Indians for countless millenia. They still make their home here, an English-speaking first people whose culture is endlessly fascinating to visitors from every corner of the Earth. Their ancient villages, totem poles and other cultural artifacts are as much a focus of tours as the islands' natural splendor.

Nowadays, the archipelago is widely renowned for its healthy population of black bears. They're generally larger than their California cousins, often topping seven feet. It's no surprise to learn that these bears can be very dangerous. There's a long list of precautions. We're more dangerous to them, though, especially since their thriving population has allowed bear hunting to remain legal. It's now a big draw to the islands.

On one point, bear and tourist are likely in agreement. The salmon fishing is excellent, and was one of the earliest attractions to these islands. So is the deer hunting. It's rare to find a place of such easily abundant wildlife associated with the Pacific Northwest, from eagles to sea otters.

The island chain is made up of one hundred fifty and more individual islands, and islands of any size have many streams and rivers. It goes without saying, then, that the islands are perfect for boating tours. Boaters can spend all day exploring the sudden coves, the rapids, the shallow streams. The rivers are full of jellyfish and, of course, salmon. One can still visit the remote cove where Captain Cook set anchor, almost three centuries ago.

The vistas are nothing short of magical, and it's no surprise that the Charlottes are commonly known as the Misty Isles. The fog can be overwhelming, blanketing the island mountain peaks and winding through the trees. Boaters can encounter spectacular "fog bows" as well as rainbows over seas full of sea lions, seals, even whales.

These are isles of fallen tree trunks covered with moss, of stony, silent beaches, and long, winding trails. Winters can be fierce, so for most purposes one must come in season. Those who do will find a wonderful place to go camping, biking, or hiking. Once the taste for adventure abates, luxurious quarters await us.




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