lundi 14 décembre 2015

Hyena Feeding At Dusk In Harar Ethiopia

By Jonny Blair


Getting to Harar in Eastern Ethiopia

You need to get to Harar to do the hyena feeding which happens around 7pm at night and its a long bus ride so be ready for it!

From the capital city, minibuses run from Addis Ababa directly to Harar, but also to Dire Dawa with a connection to Harar. To organise the mini-bus your best bet is actually just talk to locals in the streets and in your hostel and they'll sort you out. It really is that simple. I booked my mini-bus around 1pm in Addis Ababa and got on my minibus at 8.30pm. The minibus journeys can be long, gruelling and dangerous so be prepared for that. It will be worth it when you rock into Harar. My mini-bus took 15 hours in the end (a story for another post) and cost 300 Birr (which is about 16-17 $US Dollars).

Harar offers amazing views and hyenas come out at night.

To get to the hyena feeding in Harar, you can just walk. It's a 5-10 minute walk out of the city. I don't have street names or directions - you won't need that at all. You'll find it believe me. You can also get a tuk tuk (local blue and white three wheelers) out there but why pay for one when it's only a short walk. In terms of time, it's every night at dusk. This means it changes depending on the seasons. I went around 6.45pm just before it got dark.

How much does it cost?

For me, and the other three guys that did it, it was 100 Birr each. That's somewhere between $5 and $6 US Dollars. That's totally worth it, believe me. In fact I'd say it's a bargain as this is a special travel memory.

What is hyena feeding?

Well the story goes that at dusk/nightfall wild hyenas roamed the streets of Harar scavenging and looking for food. The locals decided to befriend them and try to tame them over the years and it's worked. The hyenas now turn up at dusk and are ready for a live show which they are the stars of. The hyenas, in their innocent lives, are unaware of how popular or cool their activity has become. So after years of nightly hyena feeding by the local "hyena men", Harar's people realised the potential of this odd occurrence and as such turned it into a kind of tourist pull. A way for the locals to make money, the hyenas to get fed and the backpackers to get up close and personal to hyenas. Everyone's a winner here.

What happens at hyena feeding in Harar?

Myself and two buddies I met in Harar (Dutch guys Feder and Peter) walked down out of the city past the walls along this descending lane. At the end there is an ominous tree. It is here, in recent darkness that you will do the hyena feeding.

Within minutes he is whistling out and calling hyenas to appear from nowhere. And they do. They are quick off the mark. One hyena comes and stands a mere 4-5 metres from us. The hyena knows the score. It's going to get fed raw meat by the humans that are here!

The hyenas are used to it as part of a daily routine now! It's quite cool in fact! It bites it, devours it and walks back a few metres.

There were about 3 hyenas there at this point, taking it in turns to take the meat. By this stage there were 4 of us, a Canadian guy called Phil had turned up, and as he arrived last he sort of became the one to go up first!

There are 3 main things you will do in terms of positions when feeding hyenas in Harar, and here are the three:

1. Feed them mouth to mouth.

2. Hand to Mouth - Hold a piece of wood in your hand. Put meat on the other end. The hyena comes up, takes it, eats it and walks back.

3. Get ready for the hyena to jump on your back! Crazy!

Of the three, the mouth to mouth bit is probably the scariest. For a split second I stared into the hyenas eyes, which was a scary moment. While the hyena jumping on your back is just crazy!

How dangerous is hyena feeding in Harar?

Yes, of course. Like a lot of things we do on our travels, it has risks. You don't sign any documents, there are no tourist tickets issued. It just happens by "the tree" on the backstreets on the edge of Harar. There is no real health and safety in place. But if you're up for it, DO IT. I highly recommend it.

Are photos allowed?

Of course!! That's part of the fun. As you can see from the photos on this post, it's a memory that will last a long time. I made a few videos too, all posted below. You can ask the guides to take your photos or your fellow travel buddies - and you'll meet a few white people in Harar.

Overall this is an amazing experience and I totally recommend hyena feeding in Harar.




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