jeudi 16 janvier 2014

The Current Time In India Is Kerala Time!

By Mitchell Jones


You may be an Indian ex-pat looking to return a bit for some flavor of home or an aspiring tourist anxious to experience the magic that is India. In either case, you want to know where the hottest place to be is.

As far as I'm concerned, there's no doubt about it: the place to be in India these days is Kerala. Forget about all the cliches of Katmandu and Goa; there's yesterday destination. Unless you actually want to be a trophy of irony, forget all about them. Sure, Mumbai and Delhi certainly have their appeal. But, let's be honest, there is an intensity, a weight of sheer human presence, in those cities, which just isn't everyone's cup of chai.

No, I say, if your goal is an India excursion which offers the best of all that country's remarkable travel opportunities, there's no doubt that, right now, the current time in India is Kerala time! Kerala is located along the south-western coast of India. It provides everything an aspiring adventurer could hope for in a memorable Indian visit.

If you think I'm exaggerating, check out these great features:

Let's start with Kochi. It's sometimes still called Cochin on older maps. But, by whatever name, the commercial center of Kerala is as happening as it is beautiful. It sits engagingly at the crossroads of some of Kerala's famous backwaters. The town spreads out over the northern end of a peninsula, several islands and the corresponding mainland. Kochi's ubiquitous ferries ply the waterways of the city's exquisite natural harbor. Personal experience allows me to testify that dolphins sometimes swim so close to the low slung ferries that you can, without exaggeration, simply reach over and pet them, right there in the water. It's a memory that has stuck with me my whole life.

The built environment also nicely complements the natural setting. Kochi has a history of diverse colonization, including a century and a half under the Portuguese. Whatever you think of colonialism in principle, this rich experience of cultural crossroads has left the city with a pretty amazing architectural legacy.

For all the idyllic beauty, though, if you're looking for action, Kochi won't let you down. There is a thriving nightlife with a wide range of great restaurants, representing the cuisine of diverse Indian regions as well as international fare. After dinner you have a choice of a variety of cafes, including artsy joints for the so inclined, as well as discos and pubs to party the night away.

And when you feel you're big city maxed-out, don't despair, Kerala has only begun to reveal its treasures. If you still, though, want some adventure that keeps you on the move, the splendid Kerala backwaters may be just your thing. Composed of lagoons and lakes that run parallel to what, in a more prosaic time, was called the Malabar Coast, they are connected into a vast backwater network through a great number of canals and rivers.

There's just tons of stuff to do and explore in these backwaters: I'll only mention a couple options, here. I strongly recommend getting to Alappuzha (still sometime called Alleppey). It is the central town of the backwaters and once was a major trading post. It is still a beautiful and vibrant spot to visit. Among its charms are the many canals that run through the town, earning it the nickname of Venice of the East.

The other really popular backwater adventure is to book passage on one of the kettuvallams, or Kerala houseboats. About 2000 of these kettuvallams make their way through the Kerala backwaters. Originally built to be grain barges, the kettuvallams have since been converted into what might be best described as floating cottages. Their thatched roofs enclose a comfy sleeping area and usually a Western style inboard toilet. Part of the boat is converted into an outdoor deck, perfect for viewing the scenery, watching the sunset and eating the Kerala-style meals prepared by the crew.

But, if even that's too much action for you, and all you really want to do is lounge on a beach and sip a refreshing drink, while soaking in the sun and the sound of the waves, Kerala has you covered still. Indeed, there are plenty of spots for this, but we'll tell you about just one absolute gem that you must see. Varkala is a chill-out heaven. But, despite its laid back paradise profile, unlike most other such spots along the Malabar Coast, it has not been overrun by Western hippies and rave kids.

The lush tropical coastline and exquisite beach is punctuated by the geologically unique cliffs around which the seaside village is located. There is a series of small shops - stretching over a kilometer - that run along the top edge of the cliffs. There are so many lovely places to simultaneously feed the palate, the eyes and the soul, that this is a location that has to be seen to be believed. (To get some fleeting sense of the delights, check out the video at our post: The Current Time in India is Varkala Time!)

And if you must have just a little more than absolute paradise to justify your visit, Varkala has a 2000 year old temple, which is an important Vaishnavaite shrine. And, for those so inclined, it is a hotbed of Ayurvedic medicine, including having an Ayurvedic hospital. What more could you ask for?

Getting to Kerala isn't too difficult: international flights fly into Kochi and the Kerala capital city of Thiruvananthapuram (which, incidentally, is about 32 miles, or 50 km from Varkala). However, and this is only for the real keeners, I admit, but if you can spare the time, why not really make an adventure of it? Fly instead into the even better served Mumbai airport. Then, after the must-stop-in to visit Bollywood, get yourself onto the wonderful Konkan railway for the trip down the Malabar Coast. Back in the 70s, when I first came to India, this railway didn't exist and, except for a brief time during which there was a boat between then-Bombay and Goa, the trip down the west coast was a real hardship. The new railway is a great boon to travel and a beautiful ride.

Whatever you choose, the Konkan adventure or flight right into Kochi, don't hesitate: get yourself to Kerala. These great locations don't last forever: their very popularity soon undoes them. So, don't miss Kerala, now, while in the full bloom of its glory. The current time in India is, indeed, Kerala time!




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