Some people think that soldering pipes should only be left to the experts because it is complicated to do. However, just the right tools and a bit of practice can help you execute this home improvement skill. It might come in handy one day. The first step in becoming familiar with the process is to select a few tools that you will need, as well as the supplies. Don't forget to purchase the right pipe that you. Don't be worried about the cost because they are relatively cheap and easy to find. Most plumbing supply stores will have the necessary tools and materials.
The first thing that you need to get is a good torch. propane torches are the cheapest of its kind. A simple one will consist of a nozzle and valve which are connected to a disposable propane cylinder. If you are willing to pay a little extra, choose a type of propane torch that has a built-in lighter. It's worth the investment and it's easier since you no longer need matches or a spark striker to start the flames. Look for a good torch that uses MAAP gas because they tend to be hotter. This is particularly useful when you need to solder pipes with larger diameters and heavy valves. A tubing cutter works better than a hacksaw for cutting the pipes, simply for the neatness and precision of the cut. Next is a pipe cleaning tool. You can also make use of emery cloth or steel wool to clean but it will take longer and is a bit more difficult. The last on the list are acid-free flux or tinning flux, disposable brush and solder that doesn't contain lead.
The main purpose of soldering is to fill out any space, no matter how tiny, between fittings and pipes. Of course, this task is accomplished with the use of a liquid solder. Three main requirements exist for a perfect execution. These are clean joints, flux, and the right temperature.
When the pipe has been cut to your desired length, clean the end portion using a cleaning brush or abrasive. The fittings pipe should all be sparkling clean before the flux application. It's best to use a small stiff brush for the flux paste. This product contains chemicals which are harmful to the eyes and open parts of the body. Be extra careful in handling flux, read and understand the instructions. After this step, slide the pipe into the fitting until it reaches the bottom. The pipe must be rotated in order for the flux to spread out. Ensure that additional support is given to the pipe so that it can stay still throughout the entire soldering process. Try to prepare several joints at the same time before you start soldering. This is to avoid moving previous joint when you start to work on the next one, before it cools.
Assemble the joint by sliding the pipe into the fitting until it reaches the bottom. To spread the flux, rotate the pipe which is in the fitting. Add support to the pipe so that it doesn't move during the soldering process. Provide heat only to the fitting and not the solder. The metal should have enough heat to melt the solder but not too hot that it already gives off smoke. Set the torch in an angle that keeps the blue flame two inches away from the fitting. The flux will begin to sizzle in only a few seconds. Remove a few inches of solder from the roll and bend an inch at the end into a 45-degree angle.
The first thing that you need to get is a good torch. propane torches are the cheapest of its kind. A simple one will consist of a nozzle and valve which are connected to a disposable propane cylinder. If you are willing to pay a little extra, choose a type of propane torch that has a built-in lighter. It's worth the investment and it's easier since you no longer need matches or a spark striker to start the flames. Look for a good torch that uses MAAP gas because they tend to be hotter. This is particularly useful when you need to solder pipes with larger diameters and heavy valves. A tubing cutter works better than a hacksaw for cutting the pipes, simply for the neatness and precision of the cut. Next is a pipe cleaning tool. You can also make use of emery cloth or steel wool to clean but it will take longer and is a bit more difficult. The last on the list are acid-free flux or tinning flux, disposable brush and solder that doesn't contain lead.
The main purpose of soldering is to fill out any space, no matter how tiny, between fittings and pipes. Of course, this task is accomplished with the use of a liquid solder. Three main requirements exist for a perfect execution. These are clean joints, flux, and the right temperature.
When the pipe has been cut to your desired length, clean the end portion using a cleaning brush or abrasive. The fittings pipe should all be sparkling clean before the flux application. It's best to use a small stiff brush for the flux paste. This product contains chemicals which are harmful to the eyes and open parts of the body. Be extra careful in handling flux, read and understand the instructions. After this step, slide the pipe into the fitting until it reaches the bottom. The pipe must be rotated in order for the flux to spread out. Ensure that additional support is given to the pipe so that it can stay still throughout the entire soldering process. Try to prepare several joints at the same time before you start soldering. This is to avoid moving previous joint when you start to work on the next one, before it cools.
Assemble the joint by sliding the pipe into the fitting until it reaches the bottom. To spread the flux, rotate the pipe which is in the fitting. Add support to the pipe so that it doesn't move during the soldering process. Provide heat only to the fitting and not the solder. The metal should have enough heat to melt the solder but not too hot that it already gives off smoke. Set the torch in an angle that keeps the blue flame two inches away from the fitting. The flux will begin to sizzle in only a few seconds. Remove a few inches of solder from the roll and bend an inch at the end into a 45-degree angle.
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None the less when it comes down to the copper solder in which two or more metal items are joined together by melting and flowing a filler metal (solder) into the joint, the filler metal having a lower melting point than the workpiece.
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